Engine Rebuild Day 2 - Saturday July 19

Engine Removal

I first removed the gearbox, as you do!  I am sorry but I forgot to take pictures of the hoist etc.  I had to raise the wheels a few inches on some blocks to allow the legs of the engine hoist to go under the lower suspension wishbones.  I find you need to put a wooden block under the rear of the sump and to raise it with a trolley jack (which you can just see).  This tilts the engine a little to allow the bell-housing to clear the cross-member when you have separated it from the engine.

Incidentally its also a good idea to make sure all connections have first been removed!  I have a thin ally plate between the block and bell-housing to seal the lower half from road rubbish.  I left one bolt holding the two together which allowed them to separate about an inch but then stuck fast!!  You can see the plate which takes the outline of the bell-housing and sits behind the flywheel - in fact on this photo you can just see the bent area by the bolt hole bottom left.

Gearbox removed.  The collectors are getting rather rusty as you can see from the rust which landed on top of the casing.

Next off were the clutch and flywheel.  The driven plate is quite shiny and there are regular burn marks on the flywheel.  I am not sure if the whole bell-housing is aligned correctly, but I don't notice anything when driving.  You can now see clearly the wooden lift for the rear of the sump.

Next off was the intake manifold. This came off really easily compared to when I stripped the engine when I got it as a cut-out. I must remember to do something about the thermostat housing as its face was never flat when I got it  from GTD.  I managed to flatten it slightly so it doesn't leak but it needs facing off properly.

I decided to take the heavy items off the engine in situ as it's less weight for the hoist.  Also the engine is more stable on its mountings than in the engine stand.  but again the head came off really easily though I didn't realise I had to drain both side of the block separately so the left hand bank filled with water when I took the head off.  I kept the push rods in order just in case I rebuild an engine using this cam and lifters.  Time is getting on as you can see from the sun low on the block - however I took time out to watch the British GP qualifying.

Finally the empty engine bay - a bit of a mess.  Late in the day so I'll leave clearing up until tomorrow. I want to cover over the side pontoons to try and reduce the amount of hot air that comes up the sills and into the cabin - especially through the gear lever gaiter.  When you first build your car its all so clean and bright and it's hard to imagine it as an old car, but after a few thousand miles you see how the use and road muck turns it into the typically used car finish!

At this point I looked at the fuel pumps and if I have time it's an ideal opportunity to move them up above the sill as is the standard position.  The relative ease of access at present makes this a good job to do while I wait for the block to come back form the machinist, but we'll see if this materialises :)

As a final job for the day I decided to check the weight of the head and intake manifold versus the new ally ones.

  Heads Intake manifold TOTAL
Old Ford steel units 50 + 50 =100 lbs 42 lbs 142 lbs
New Edelbrock ally units 29 + 29 =  58 lbs 17 lbs 75 lbs

So the total weight saving is 67 lbs, almost half the weight of the original items.  If I had also fitted an aluminium water pump it probably would have been half.

This is a serious lot of weight off the top of the engine, above the centre of gravity of the car.  It also represents about 30/1350 ths (2.2%) of the whole car's weight, which at 350 bhp is equivalent to an extra 8 bhp. Hardly astounding but useful.  I can now add 30Kg of air-con equipment and keep the performance the same!

The plan for tomorrow is to continue the strip down of the engine and check the piston clearance to the valves.

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